Working on an editorial photo shoot—where anything can change at the last minute.
By Matin

A few years ago, I was bored with my job as a research scientist and decided to become a make up artist.  The job seemed rewarding and creative.  However I was not prepared to find this much joy in the job.  In my experience, the work is dynamic, creative and incredibly stress-free.  The beauty of it is that every job proves to be a clean slate. No matter how much one plans, the first five minutes in the morning can change everything.

The work with fashion magazines usually varies from editor to editor and from photographer to photographer.  It depends on the magazine and how experienced the photographer might be.  Some very established photographers simply trust their bookers and editors to choose the right hair and make up team, while others want to have much or complete control for the look.  One is not necessarily better than the other, but life is much easier when the trust is there and no one is out to control everything.  This is usually why once an artist gets in with a particular photographer, she/he is likely to get booked on a regular basis with the same person.  Similarly most big publications have very formulated looks that work for them, especially for their covers.  When a make up artist provides what they are looking for, subsequent bookings are likely to happen.  That is the beauty of this industry—when you establish yourself, the bookings come automatically.  And the editorials and covers will lead to advertising jobs and celebrities that are healthy for the bank account. 

Keep in mind that there are many variables to juggle.  The artist has to please the editor, the photographer, the celebrity and everyone on God’s green earth.  At the same time, she/he has to have the ability to do the best work possible while pleasing all.  It is important not to take any criticism personally and to realize that the team is there to make the shoot possible, even if it means that the make up artist’s creative vision is downsized to little or no make-up.

A case-in-point was a fashion trip to
Mexico with a new stylist/editor and an established photographer. It was to be the stylist’s first big cover and fashion spread for this very prestigious magazine. I had a few phone conversations with the editor on what she wanted the story to be.  We discussed creating a very sexy look with lots of smoky black eye shadows, glossy lips, shimmery body make up and all the bells and whistles that goes with it.  The model was selected and she was the obvious choice for such look.  After all she was Brazilian.  All were prepared.  I have a fear of my kit not making the flight so I downsized to a bare minimum in order to have it as carry on.  We got to the location late in the afternoon and, lo and behold, the hairdresser’s kit never made it.  He went frantically looking for hair products in Cabo while the rest of the crew enjoyed a swim and margaritas (virgin for me).  Over breakfast, we decided to have the day off in order to have a nicely tanned model.

The model was all bronzed and perfect to do a sultry look of a
Latina vixen.  It was time to try the clothes on and see how they fit.  The micro minis with all the pretty glitz on them looked too much with heals and big time make up and hair. It did not settle well with the photographer. We all looked at each other and laughed, except for the editor who was clearly in agony.  She was not prepared for a last minute change.  Deep down I was a bit upset as well because I REALLY wanted to get the sexy look out of the job.  Over lunch we discussed the problem and agreed that the minimal make-up and hair look on the beach with flip flops or no shoes would be the way to make the story work.

Needless to say, the hair was blown straight, the make up consisted of concealer, mascara, lip balm and cream blush.  The first pictures were taken in the waves where the hair was totally ruined and the clothes were clinging to the body.  Nothing like what the editor envisioned.  Nonetheless it oozed CHIC.  The next day, we took our two hours prepping the girl and we shot in the city and in the streets.  The story consisted of the model crawling in the sand, wet hair, natural looks, walking in the streets in
Mexico looking bored and sweaty, and nothing like we planned.  This is one of the scenarios that is typical of a fashion shoot for a magazine. 

However, there is light at the end of the tunnel.  Advertising jobs and music videos usually have a great prep time and planning can be done in order to execute a particular look.  The artist’s contribution counts a lot and one has to gather up confidence to offer suggestions on what the look should be.  The artist has to be prepared for some back and forth exchange of ideas and meeting middle ground, but the good news is that the make-up design by the artist usually weighs a lot more than anyone else’s opinion.

My experiences with fashion editorials have taught me not to be rigid about ideas that I might have come in with.  The work is dynamic and anything can change in the last second.  Including the model.  That is what makes fashion a fun-filled addiction.  Just pray to your higher powers not to fall victim to it.

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